Sporniket's installation

[sporniket]

Hello, I am Sporniket, and this topics will host a log of installing the Smartboard STe (the kit set, with led display and RTC). There is still some time before it arrives. I have skimmed over the manual, first impression is that it seems foolproof enough for the target audience.

[sporniket]

Today I had some time to do preparatory work : change the rom jumpers by small, right-angled switches, and the resistor network P101. I don't have an external blitter so the resistor network P100 is more accessible, so I will refrain to change it. At this point, my STe is still working (I lifted 2 pads under P101, I did the soldering of the new one on the topside instead), so tomorrow I will continue the work.

Photos will come later, when I am free.

[sporniket]

Here are the pictures of the day.

I have to setup my ephemeral workspace each time I want to do soldering and such, so that in itself takes some time...

First thing first, I take care of the ROM jumpers...

...to replace them by very convenient little switches...

To be continued

[sporniket]

The continuation

After the jumper, I have to deal with the resistor networks. I first tried to solder some wires on P101, to see if I could skip that step, but I have no other choice than replace it, so first I snip the legs. And I will leave it like that, my time is up for the morning, real life has woken up.

Later today, I could take a little time to continue. I succeeded somewhat to remove the remaining legs, but two vias have suffered.

Fortunately, only the underside is deteriorated, so I installed the new resistor network, and soldered on the topside. At this point, I did a test to check that the STe was still working, and there is no problem.

So tomorrow, I plan to continue the installation. P100 is in a better configuration (already slanted, the legs have a little more space, and there is no blitter), so if possible, I will do my best to avoid removing it.

The end, for today.

[Administrator]

I can't see it clearly in your photos, but are the pins for the external blitter on the PCB covered by solder-mask or is it possible to solder the cables to these pins?

[sporniket]

It's covered by solder mask. I will post a picture of the area later.

[sporniket]

This morning, I soldered the 10-wires connector (except the FDD-Led-in wire) and the 6-wires connector

Before :

After :

I did probe the legs of P101 and P100 to check for solder bridges, and it seems that generous supply of flux and a fine soldering tip did the trick, no problem on this front.

Next step will be the combined FDD+HDD led. I understand that all the work on the SmartBoard STe is already done (on inspection, I found D2, D5 and R1 populated, and SJ2 closed). That will leave me with working on U307.
Questions :

• Did you have to remove solder mask to solder the HDD LED- wire ? (between U203 and the CPU, along a VCC trace)
  I have soldermask there so I will need to remove it. I may also try by cutting pin #18 of U307 at mid height, lift the higher half, lower the lower half ; then solder HDD LED- on the lower half, isolate with polyimide tape, and solder the FDD-Led-In on the higher half.
• I have a brown lone wire, with one end crimped in a dupont connector ; Another one longer, purple, and with both ends crimped in a dupont connector. and two other wires with colored stripes. What are the purpose of each one ?
• When combining HDD and FDD activity into one LED, the RED wire of the 3-wires connector (black-brown-red) is not used, correct ?

Now some feedbacks on the documentation

• A Table of Content at the beginning would be usefull. And by further structuring the manual (more on that below), it will give a good mind map to the reader.
• A page footer with the page number. It works with the table of content, and when leaving the sheet of papers unattached together, it allows to reorder them without mistakes.
• There should be 3 main part :
  1. package content : to identify without doubt each element, and have an idea of what those lone wires are to be used for.
  2. Hardware installation
  3. How to use

That's all for now.

[Administrator]

This morning, I soldered the 10-wires connector (except the FDD-Led-in wire) and the 6-wires connector

That's what I call good soldering!

I understand that all the work on the SmartBoard STe is already done (on inspection, I found D2, D5 and R1 populated, and SJ2 closed). That will leave me with working on U307.

Your conclusion is correct. I have prepared the board for your intended use (D2, D5, R1, SJ2).

Questions :

• Did you have to remove solder mask to solder the HDD LED- wire ? (between U203 and the CPU, along a VCC trace)
  I have soldermask there so I will need to remove it. I may also try by cutting pin #18 of U307 at mid height, lift the higher half, lower the lower half ; then solder HDD LED- on the lower half, isolate with polyimide tape, and solder the FDD-Led-In on the higher half.
• I have a brown lone wire, with one end crimped in a dupont connector ; Another one longer, purple, and with both ends crimped in a dupont connector. and two other wires with colored stripes. What are the purpose of each one ?
• When combining HDD and FDD activity into one LED, the RED wire of the 3-wires connector (black-brown-red) is not used, correct ?

• U203 is the MFP? At least on my schematic. Or do you mean the 74LS244 U307?
  HDD-LED- needs to be connected to pin3 of the keyboard connector.
  Unfortunately it is a push-pull signal on STE (but not on STF(M)Falcon030) so you need to lift pin 18 of U307 (74LS244).
  I assume you are referring to the photo on page 10 of the manual?
  Your STE mainboard revision is newer than mine. My STEs both have ext. Blitters.
  I assume that they went haywire using solder-mask lacquer. I'd just scratch it away and check for continuity with pin 3 keyboard connector.
  A simple before/after schematic snippet should clarify thing:

  

  PCB connection between pin 18 U308 and keyboard connector cut by lifting pin 18 of U308 (74LS244).
• all the wires and the 90° single-line pin-headers are optional. You may either use them in the way I used them on page 10: brown wire of HDD-LED- soldered to brown wire with Dupont connector and use the provided shrink tube for isolation, then solder in a single pin 90° contact to the solder point. I wasn't sure about how you wanted to install it i.e. removable/non-removable. Just put them in storage, throw away, whatever...
• yes, the red wire is not used for your configuration. I removed it by pressing on the metal contact on the side (not where the holes are) and pulled
  it out. So I can reuse it later.

Now some feedbacks on the documentation

• A Table of Content at the beginning would be usefull. And by further structuring the manual (more on that below), it will give a good mind map to the reader.
• A page footer with the page number. It works with the table of content, and when leaving the sheet of papers unattached together, it allows to reorder them without mistakes.
• There should be 3 main part :
  1. package content : to identify without doubt each element, and have an idea of what those lone wires are to be used for.
  2. Hardware installation
  3. How to use

That's all for now.

I second your suggestions. Yesterday I thought about rearranging the installation steps myself and to move the parts that leave the machine in a "testable" configuration to the top.
You may use one wire for the 16MHz connection. The via described in the manual is/has to be connected to GSTMCU U400 pin 2.

I forgot to mention the meaning of SJ1 on the photo on pg. 11:
Some IDE-DiskOnModules (DOMs) can draw 5V current via IDE connector pin 20. If you close SJ1 then IDE pin 20 is connected to 5V. But be careful: this applies 5V on pin 20 to both devices on the IDE connector, if you choose to use the IDE in a master/slave configuration.

I appreciate your efforts documenting all the steps and constructive criticism! They will definitely make their way into Manual V.2!

[sporniket]

Thanks for your answers.

Then I did it like that for FDD-led-in and HDD-LED-minus : First cut the leg 18 of U307 at half height...

...Then solder LED- to the bottom part...

...Then solder FDD-LED-in to the top part...

Of course, I tested continuity to check for bridge and check the right pin to cut.

To be continued

[sporniket]

Connection point to IKBD's Tx :

Connection to HDINT :

To be continued