Sporniket's installation

[sporniket]

For the 16MHz signal, since I have a soldered Shifter, I will take advantage of that and tap directly from the pin #52

[Administrator]

Extraordinary soldering skills!
I remember what the purple cable with two Dupont connectors was meant for: TxD connection from mainboard to Display module. But I cannot tell if it is long enough for your intended positioning of the MultiLED module.

One question: the indicated soldering point left of the SIMM sockets for the 16MHz signal is not available on your mainboard? Or is it hidden under solder-mask?

[sporniket]

Extraordinary soldering skills!

Thanks

One question: the indicated soldering point left of the SIMM sockets for the 16MHz signal is not available on your mainboard? Or is it hidden under solder-mask?

It's hidden under solder mask.

The wires for the 12V rail did not want to stick to C107 as recommended, but they behaved on C108 ; of course it's less easy, there are lots of wires to avoid now.

I remember what the purple cable with two Dupont connectors was meant for: TxD connection from mainboard to Display module. But I cannot tell if it is long enough for your intended positioning of the MultiLED module.

To me it seemed long enough, so I used it (removed one connector at one end) to prepare the LED module

We are ready for the final assembly, let's isolate the oscillators first...

[sporniket]

One question: the indicated soldering point left of the SIMM sockets for the 16MHz signal is not available on your mainboard? Or is it hidden under solder-mask?

For the record, here is how the area looks like on my motherboard :

By the way, you can look most nook and crannies of my motherboard here : https://github.com/sporniket/kicad-conv ... onent-side

[Administrator]

The wires for the 12V rail did not want to stick to C107 as recommended, but they behaved on C108 ; of course it's less easy, there are lots of wires to avoid now.

You may try removing the insulation of the cable for about 10mm, then form a hook of the stripped copper wire, "hook" into the cap's leg and twist the copper end to close the open end of the hook, essentially forming a loop/sling. Then solder it together.

BTW: you have an Ajax FDC? Was it originally installed by Atari?

Answering myself: yes, it's an Ajax and it seems to be socketed. Lucky you.

[sporniket]

BTW: you have an Ajax FDC? Was it originally installed by Atari?

It was like that when I bought it some years ago, and one of the first things I did was replacing the floppy drive by a goex.

Continuing, I am almost there (to spoil, some things are working, some are not, but first I show all I did)

Removing the ROMs, and setting the jumpers

Plug the smartboard

Soldering the 16MHz wire

[sporniket]

The 3-wires connector (the red wire is isolated and fixed somewhere else

The 6-wires connector

The 10-wires connector

[Administrator]

What I need to append to the manual: the FLASH-DISABLE jumper will do exactly what it intends: it will diasable the FlashROMs completely and no /DTACK is generated either.

[sporniket]

When plugging the ribbon cable, I almost missed the writing. You should write on the two sides.

The Led module is plugged

Preparing the RTC's battery

[Administrator]

When plugging the ribbon cable, I almost missed the writing. You should write on the two sides.

The cable itself is 1:1, but if you plug in the "SB" marked end into SmartBoard then the cable will point upwards and you don't need to twist it unnecessarily.

When powering up the red LEDs should be on. This indicates Slot #1.